The bimetal is a kind of resistor (the zig-zag lines tell you this.) The electricity then flows through an orange and black wire (O-BK) to the detergent dispenser bimetal. These switches are located inside of the timer (you know this because they are drawn with thick lines.) They must be closed. Then it goes through switch number 15, then number 11. The power then goes through a tan wire to the timer. Let's say you need to check out why the detergent dispenser is not working.įollowing the gray-shaded circuit in figure 6-B, note that the electricity "flows" from L1 to L2.įrom L1 the electricity flows to the door switch. Between L1 and L2, you will see 110 volts. In Figure 6-B, which shows a typical electric dishwasher, L1, L2, are the main power leads they go directly to your wall plug. This includes not only the component that you suspect, but all switches leading to it, and sometimes other components, too. You must be able to trace the path that the electricity will take, FROM the wall outlet backTO the wall outlet. Remember that for something to be energized, it must make a complete electrical circuit. If it does, you know that contact inside the switch is good. For example, in figure 6-B, if you want to test the door switch, take power off the machine, disconnect the black and tan wires from it and connect one test lead each terminal. Connect your ohmmeter to the two terminal leads of the switch you want to test. To test a switch with a certain marking, mark and disconnect all the wires. Usually the terminals on the outside of the timer are stamped or printed with the color of the wire that is supposed to attach to it. Any wiring enclosed by a shaded or dotted box is internal to a switch assembly and must be tested as described in section 6-3(a) or (b). It may also be the timer, but whatever it is, it should be clearly marked on the diagram. If you see dotted or shaded lines around a group of wires, this is a switch assembly for example, a pushbutton selector switch assembly or a relay. If two wires cross on the diagram without a black dot where they cross, they are not connected. The small black circles indicate places where one wire is connected to the other. These are places where you can disconnect the wire from the component for testing purposes. The small white circles all over the diagram are terminals. The wiring and switches that are shown as thick lines are inside of the timer. Notice that in some parts of the diagram, the lines are thicker than in other parts. ![]() For example BU-W means Blue with a white stripe, T/R means tan with a red stripe.Ī few notes about reading a wiring diagram: A wire color with a dash or a slash means - with a - stripe. Black is usually abbreviated BK, blue is usually BU. For example, Y means a yellow wire, V means Violet, R means red, LBU means light blue. Wire colors are abbreviated and shown next to each wire. The symbols used to represent each component are pretty universal. If you already know how to read a wiring diagram, you can skip this section.Įach component should be labelled clearly on your diagram. Either way, you must remove the door panel to get to it as described in section 5-2. Usually your wiring diagram is either pasted to the inside of the door panel, or else contained in a plastic pouch inside the door itself. It is ESPECIALLY important in diagnosing a bad timer. ![]() Sometimes you just need to find out what color wire to look for to test a component. Sometimes you need to read a wiring diagram, to make sure you are not forgetting to check something. Since they can get a volume discount on the part, it will PROBABLY end up costing you not much more than trying to do it yourself. So I know this will be controversial, and you will SELDOM hear me say this, but my PRACTICAL advice is this: if you have a problem that you think you've traced to the electronic controls in a machine, call a professional service technician to fix it. You have no interest in owning a hundred-dollar circuit board that you don't need, and can't return. ![]() However, if you're a DIY'er, it's a BIG problem. and use it on the next one of these machines that you see. You can just yank the circuit board back out. If you're a professional technician, that's not a problem. Meaning that if you didn't guess correctly, you just ate a hundred-dollar circuit board, and your machine still has the same problem that needs fixing. And being electrical parts, they are usually not returnable. Unfortunately, circuit boards are not cheap. It's just simply much faster and easier to change out a circuit board and see if the machine works, than it is to try to figure out what component of that board has failed. Wanna know a secret? For professionals, an awful lot of diagnosis is done by guessing ESPECIALLY with electronic components.
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